From Brittany to Belfast: A BMW Sidecar Saga (Part 2!)

Our European adventures continue! After last year’s Italian escapade (MPH 808) on our 1959 BMW R69 and Watsonian sidecar, the trusty machine was shipped to Fred Durand in Lesconil, Brittany, for a well-deserved overhaul. We’ve decided to keep our Vincent in Australia and rely on the R69 for our EU tours and rallies. Besides, even without a Vincent, we’re always welcomed! This year, we’re representing the VOC Queensland section at the 40th French Vincent Rally, followed by a trip to Ireland.

Days 1-4: Wonderful Barcelona! We caught up with old friends from South Korea, enjoyed delicious food, and explored the sights via open-top bus, including the Picasso Museum and the Sagrada Familia.

Days 5-7: Fred Durand met us at Brest airport and took us to Lesconil. It was great to see the R69 again! A last-minute snag: the rear shocks were shot. Bob Porecha in London is sending replacements to Ireland – talk about cutting it close! Fred then gave us a memorable tour of Brittany, including the medieval village of Locronan. If you’re planning a Brittany ride, contact Fred (+33(0)680882393) at his new motorcycle touring business, “OldStone-Riders.” He’s a local expert and a great guy.

Day 8: We set off for Le Bec Hellouin and the French Vincent Rally, with Fred leading the way on his Africa Twin. Violy, now a packing pro, efficiently loaded the sidecar. She was much happier with the newly reupholstered sidecar, the 12-volt upgrade, and working lights! No more flashlight-in-the-tunnel situations! Our first stop: Pierre Spagnots La Mars in Pont l’abbe’, a popular biker hangout. Next, we headed towards Mont St Michel, stopping at the Abbaye de Bon-Repos for coffee. We arrived at Mont St Michel late, after watching hundreds of sheep block the road, and only managed photos of the sunset.

Day 9: After a good night’s sleep, we headed to the rally. The R69 performed well, despite a loose rear wheel hub cover screw. The steering friction damper was tight, preventing a savage tank-slapper wobble we experienced earlier. Violy’s weight and the luggage seemed to stabilize things…or so we thought. Coming out of a roundabout, a bump triggered a violent tank-slapper. I managed to stop before hitting a wall, but it was a frightening experience for both of us, complete with some colorful language from me. We tightened the steering friction even more, making the steering very heavy.

Day 10: We arrived at Le Bec Hellouin, a “most beautiful village of France,” for the rally. The atmosphere was buzzing with Vincent enthusiasts. We caught up with UK VOC members like Simon Dinsdale, Bryan Philips, and Jacqueline Bickerstaff. Fred had to leave before meeting our friend Dominique Le Bris. Dinner was interesting – I accidentally ordered raw veal! – but the wine helped. We explored the abbey grounds and the charming streets. The variety of Vincents was amazing, including some pre-war Series A Comets (photos for Greg Brillus!). I distributed Queensland section patches. Then, we joined a ride led by Dominique. We got separated from the group and missed the planned castle visit. Later, we met up with friends Ken and Jane West, former colleagues from South Korea. We enjoyed beer in the sun, and Violy did some shopping. Jack Ehret’s 1953 Black Lightning, displayed by Patrick Godett, was a highlight – what a sound! The dinner was a feast, with flowing wine. We vowed to return to this village.

Day 11: Feeling the effects of the wine, we packed up and said goodbye to friends. We needed to catch the Cherbourg ferry. At a gas station, our credit card was declined again. Dominique helped us out. Then, we headed off in the wrong direction. Violy’s “Why don’t you get a GPS?” echoed in my mind. At the next gas stop, I realized my shoulder bag was missing – phones, tablet, credit cards, BMW ownership papers, everything! Passport and wallet were safe, thankfully. With time running out, we sped to Cherbourg and made the ferry with 15 minutes to spare.

Day 12: The ferry crossing was smooth. Irish immigration was interested in Violy’s Philippine passport but ultimately extended her visa. Violy was relieved to be on the correct side of the road. Our Bluetooth chargers were in the lost bag, so it was back to sign language. A sign for “Bed/Fuel/Food” led us on a wild goose chase for a bathroom. We eventually found one back on the freeway – ironically, near the same spot where I filled the R69 with diesel last year! We arrived at our cousin’s place in Dublin, only to find no one home. We went to our hotel and finally got online. Facebook Messenger revealed that a fellow biker, Jeremy, had found my bag in Brionne! He returned it later in South Korea. We caught up with our cousins later that evening.

Day 13: I got completely lost trying to get from the hotel back to our cousin’s place. I even asked a security guard for directions to Erris Square, but he was clueless. I eventually found it on his computer screen. We said goodbye to our cousins. In Bambridge, a Belfast Telegraph reporter showed interest in our R69.

Days 14-17: We enjoyed catching up with Ken and Maureen Hamilton and the “Dromara Destroyers.” A great night with locals made us promise to return. The R69 needs more work: sidecar alignment, new rear shocks, and higher handlebars. We drained the fuel, packed everything into the sidecar, and flew back to South Korea. A huge thanks to Violy for putting up with my “holidays.” And yes, a GPS is on the list!

Footnote: We’ll be at the Australian National Vincent Rally in Parkes NSW in October, along with 18 other Queensland section members. Ride safe!

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